Every latex lover knows that long nails and studded accessories can be the ruin of a perfect outfit. So how did Claire Leftwich-Winchester, a former employee of hallowed London rubber retailers House of Harlot, come to establish Prong - a jewellery line as spiky, and sharply designed as its name suggests? Mik Scarlet investigates.
Piercing jewellery and more practical restraints and collars aside, finding accessories which add that finishing touch to any fetish club-ready ensemble can be hard. So with a background at House of Harlot noted, it's hardly surprising to find that Claire Leftwich-Winchester and her Prong collection have near-cornered this niche in barely a decade.
While trademark corseted, padlocked or D-ring detailed 'posture collars' and tasselled or sequin encrusted nipple pasties still represent Prong's deviant roots, an ever-diversifying range now reaches out to any number of sub-cultural tribes.
Lately, a set of tan leather 'n' cream lace creations, accented with copper hardware and channelling alternative fashion's present passion for all things steampunk , has suggested that Prong pieces will remain a staple of alt. jewellery boxes through many trends to come. Though Claire's focus on the future shouldn't leave latex aficionados feeling forsaken; rubber remains a favoured material, being crafted into hair bows, chokers and even a sleek, shiny boa!
So Claire, when did you start Prong?
Prong Jewellery was created almost by accident, in the Autumn of 2001.
How did you get into making jewellery?
I have worked in fashion all my life, graduating from London College of Fashion in 1999 with a degree in tailoring, so I was always creative.
I'd been working at London's House of Harlot for several years, and making my own designs as a side project, so I had cupboards filled with fabrics, buckles - you name it, I had it! It was one of those times when I needed a bit of extra pocket money - the Rubber Ball was approaching, along with other endless parties, so I decided to see what I could create to potentially sell to like minded folk. And so the first few pieces began to take shape.
Robin Archer, the boss at HOH very kindly offered to sell them through the Holloway Road store, and the customers loved them!
So I went home and made some more.
And then, some more.
And that's really where it all began!
So how did you come up with the name "Prong"?
Quite soon into making these accessories, I thought about a name to give them, and I wanted something that told you what the styles was before you even saw it, and Prong was the perfect choice.
I wanted something that would describe the big, heavy, shiny, spiky and sparkly creations that were in my mind.
The more I made the more I realised that I enjoyed making crazy jewellery more than actually making clothes, and to me, it's all about accessorising! Just come to my house and you'll find an Alladins Cave of trinkets, shoes, handbags etc!
Could you desribe the types and styles of jewellery you make?
Nowadays, the range has become so big it's difficult to know what pieces to retire - there are still some of the very first pieces that people still buy all the time.
Do you have a current favourite piece?
My personal favourites have got to be the posture collars. In particular, the crystal posture collar. It's massive, full on, and whenever anyone wears it, they're the centre of attention! The same has to be said of the two mirror posture collars, the plain one, and the one with claw spikes. Paris Hilton can be seen wearing the plain one in Tatler June '09, and Gabriella Cilmi wore the same one for her music video for On a Mission. I love it when I see people who aren't alternative getting into Prong, it really makes my day!
Who would you say wears Prong?
Typically, my customers are into the fetish scene, but of course there is a lot of alternative/gothic/steampunk people who love the Prong style, and I try to take influence from everything and everyone around me.
How do you start designing a piece?
When I begin designing new pieces, sometimes I have a goal in mind - like with the new Steam Punk styles I launched in February. All made with really soft brown leather, trimmed with cream laces and ribbons, or antique rivets and brass pendants. When I'm not sure, I go out to all my suppliers and see whats new - that's generally my approach. To find new components, even if they're not meant to be used for jewellery, I'll get ideas from what I can find around me. Then I'll pair them up with something totally random, and think, "Hey, that would make a really cool bangle / pair of earrings / hair band, etc..."
What influences your personal style?
I grew up being really into the glam rock/cock rock of the early nineties, late eighties, with all the bands like LA Guns, early Guns n Roses, Hanoi Rocks, Skid Row and Faster Pussycat, and it was all about the clothes, hair, make up - and accessories. I blame everything squarely on that! In my mind, it's all a logical progression of sleazy punk style, through into the fetish scene, though into Prong, the crowning cherry in every cool and sexy chick and sexy guys wardrobe!
